Thursday 17 December 2009

Changing Impressions of Japan


enjoying ochazuke at a Japanese temple
One of the firsts things we learnt about the Japanese was the generally accepted view of themselves as a unique race, with an ungraspable language and a different brain to the rest of us. This just served to enforce the idea that as a gaijin I would never fit into Japanese society and always be treated as an outsider, which just made me feel intimidated and sure I would find it a difficult year. Having been here for four months now I still think along the same lines - I will always be an outsider in Japan - but my feeling about that has changed. The reason is in fact due to this discrimination; I have only ever found it to be to my advantage. At festivals I have been ushered to the front so I get a better view and I've lost count of the number of times I have been escorted to places I have been looking for, all examples of the kindness of strangers and the willingness to help foreigners.
Another way in which it helps to be a gaijin is that being seen as a panda means that you can get involved in more experiences as the Japanese value having a gaijin along as somehwat of a status symbol, as well as just thinking you will be more interested in aspects of their culture than the average Japanese person. Kansai Gaidai has been involved in a traditional dance performance with members of the community for this reason, which was a strange cultural exchange if ever I saw one - the audience was a mix of middle aged Japanese and young foreigners come to see their friends perform - but still fun for those involved!
Japanese people often seem to apply the theory that "I couldn't know any better" to all the annoying questions I must ask my Japanese family and friends on a regular basis; I get treated in the same way as a five year old would when asking "why" all the time! As a foreigner I think it also makes me more comfortable asking questions that might seem inconsequential, but which often yield some interesting answers (as Bestor said they do!). For example I once asked my okaasan why the dogs didn't go outside together, which eventually led to her revealing that she didn't think women who had had a hysterectomy could be considered "all woman".....don't ask how! Japanese people also tend to explain the reasons behind actions that other Japanese are expected to know already, which can lead to some interesting discoveries. When I was staying in a temple we were given ochazuke (tea poured over usually leftover rice) at the end of a meal; while she was making it the lady was trying to explain why it is a Japanese tradition, however all I could get from the conversation was that rice was important, has power and the number eighty eight....having no idea what to make of this I asked the Japanese people I  know what she was trying to get at. No-one seems to know, but several people have theories; either that it is the length of time taken to grow rice, the number of gods in a grain of rice or the kanji for rice is made up of the kanji of haachi ju haachi (eighty eight). If only my Japanese was better this could have turned into an interesting discussion on why rice is so important in Japan and why they don't like to waste food! One of the things I like about anthropology is this reflexive aspect, the way it makes people look at their own culture and think about things that they would otherwise take for granted; I often think this is the real purpose of anthropology.
As an anthropologist looking at Japanese culture I have enjoyed the luxuries afforded by the positive discrimination towards foreigners over the last four months. However I might feel differently if I lived somewhere for ten or more years and was always seen as a gaijin while trying to fit in and function as a regular member of society. I am sure the longer I live in Japan the more I might encounter negative discrimination, however as it is I think I will continue to enjoy the remainder of my year here, and make many more interesting discoveries!


two gaijin performing a 'fisherman dance' in Hirakata

4 comments:

  1. Looking at your overall project:

    Your descriptions and detail is a welcome treat in your posts. I do like the selection of topics you chose, and it feels as if you got a tremendous amount of experience from your host family. As for improvement, a few more links from non-class materials would have been more useful for fellow students. Your pachinko article was exceptionally interesting for instance. Also, as for the pandas ... I wouldn't say someone showing you the way is so much them treating you as a panda or child (just because you're foreign) as it seems. I've heard of even more remarkable kindnesses bestowed upon my Japanese friends and accquaintences. There is something a bit more going on here I feel. Overall I enjoyed your project.

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  2. Excellent post Becks! Really interesting to hear how your view of Japan has changed while you have been there! And that conversation about eating everything on the table will always remain a confusing mystery! Funny photo tho!

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  3. Actually I have finished grading but somehow I came across this your final post. I agree with what R.A. Stern said above. And so now I have to go back and change your grade... Anyway, thanks for your interesting posts during the semester. Keep up with your exploration of Japan but try not to use your gaijin privilege too much...

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  4. I have lived in Japan for a long time. My take is; the longer you stay the worse it gets. You begin to understand why things are they way they are. It gets really weird. Know when to back out.
    There are many different camps of people in japan in the gaijin community. Many will argue, to the point of becomeing angry, that all is good with Japan. Avoid these types.

    Others leave, come,then leave when it gets stressful

    Others are realist, just complain as they are married, kids, job, maybe trapped.

    Then others are sunny all the time and the japanese call them henna gaijin.
    Japan gets weird when you start to see how corporations work and the government (amakudari system)
    Japan is very much an asian country, but they try to deny it and say they are unique. Visit/live in Korea/China, many things are almost identical.
    I would say most things about Japan bore me now, and its no longer interesting. Very predictable people and country

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